Best Air Mattress

I’m getting a great night’s sleep now that I’ve switched to the DownMat UL by Exped.

The definition of a good night's sleep.

At 580 grams, it’s half a pound heavier than my Thermarest NeoAir. They pack down to about the same size. Compare the gain in insulation and decide for yourself if it’s worth it. The NeoAir has an R value of 2.5. The DownMat: 5.9. That’s twice as warm. 

And, as one Himalayan guide had promised me, the DownMat is by far the most comfortable sleeping pad I’ve ever tested. 

 The stuff sack doubles as the pump.

Never take the DownMat on a trip without a good repair kit. Like all air mattresses, it’s useless uninflated. But unlike most air mattresses, you can’t fill this up with the humid air from your lungs. You'll wet out the down.

So you need the roll-top yellow pump, which is quite cleverly designed, but if that gets a puncture, you’re s**t outta luck. If you've been doing the math, your odds of a puncture that will leave you sleeping on the bare ground have just doubled. Bring the repair kit! I'm thinking about buying a second pump bag as backup. It’s as light as any other stuff sack on the market. And the UL air pillow that inflates with the same pump takes up less space than my face towel. 

Who needs an air pillow? Who needs a down insulated sleeping pad? Isn't this all just over the top?

That’s what I was mumbling before I spent a month’s worth of freezing nights in Idyllwild during a cold snap. I was “luxuriously” bunked on a twin-bed size, 9-inch Kelty base camp mattress that leaked every night. It was cold as f***. I’d brought along my NeoAir for the peaks, and I froze my ass on that, too.

So fibers and feathers do make a difference. They block cold spots. They’re warmer and more comfortable than foam (whether closed cell or open cell). If you can stomach the ticket price, splurge on an Exped and don’t look back. The DownMat is filled with IDFL certified down that's humanely sourced.

Here's a great shot of Exped in use by the UK blogger Robin. I like his helpful gear reviews. And I'm often jealous of his camp sites in the Fells, Wales and Scotland.


Down or synthetic? 

I compared the DownMat UL to its synthetic counterpart on Cumberland Island, Georgia, not known for its dry climate. They were equally warm and equally comfortable on nights that dipped down to about 45 degrees Fahrenheit.

The SynMat, filled with fairly eco fibers, inflates a bit stiffer, and the fabric feels a bit warmer to the touch. Paddlers might not want to test what happens if too much damp air is repeatedly pumped into the DownMat. But for trekkers and climbers, the hefty weight and the burly size make the SynMat a purely base camp mattress. I’d never carry it on a multi-day trip.

Exped MegaMat: base camp heaven

Some day, though, I’ll want that twin bed back. Think I’ll try the MegaMat. By then, maybe they'll make a double. That's down filled. Ahhh. Zzzzzzz.

Have You Tried This?

"Water-repellent down."

Hmm. I wonder.

It's no purist's heavenly cloud, but this new Encapsil down belay parka from Patagonia looks pretty sweet.

500 grams is definitely the right weight, putting it alongside my go-to RAB synthetic hooded belay jacket.

But $700? And how breathable will it be? And I've got to send it back to Patagonia for liquid CO2 cleaning?

First Ascent came out with a bantam-weight prototype using this technology a while back, more like a down sweater. I haven't tried it. The RMI guide I talked to, who had worn his all season on Mt. Ranier, said it's the best cruiser he's ever worn.

I'd love to hear from you if you've tried this new pairing. Or know anyone who has.

For readers just getting into alpine gear, you definitely need a belay jacket. And you probably need two. One for summer flare-ups and epics. Another for winter trips and ice climbs. The four main features you should be looking for in any belay jacket are:

1. Packability
2. Hood that fits over your helmet
3. Two main zippers for warmth plus access to your harness
4. Chest pocket; handwarmer pockets that don't interfere with your harness

Gear Loft Basics

It’s hard enough to find great gear that carries its weight and stands the test of time. It’s a total loss when I do something idiotic that shortens the life of a piece of equipment I rely on.

Experience has taught me not to cut costs or corners in the design phase.

Want (most of) your adventure stuff to last a lifetime or similar?

Here are the top 5 things you absolutely must have before you splurge on pricey merino base layers, a new tent, a rack and a rope or a primo down puffy or sleeping bag.

1. Front-loading, best quality, large capacity washer with “handwash” and “delicates” settings. 
2. Dryer: key for reproofing apparel. You must be able to control the heat. 
3. Well-lit, climate controlled, walk-in space low in humidity. Limit direct sunlight. 
4. Ample shelving with high clearances for loosely folded tents and sleeping bags stored in cotton bags. Air must circulate freely among all items. Air mattresses (70” plus in length) must be shelved (or hung) open and inflated. 
5. Room to hang gear including all ropes, runners and jackets (no wire hangars). NEVER store climbing ropes or runners on the ground. Ever. 

And if you dive, you can’t do without a garden hose, spigot attachments and an extra large rubber trash can (100-gallon plus, with lid) for rinsing gear in fresh water.